Cantonese Crispy Pork Belly Siu Yuk

Crispy pork belly siu yuk starts with careful preparation of the joint. Pat the whole piece dry with paper towels. Score the meaty underside about halfway through in a tight crosshatch. Space the cuts closely, so the seasoning can travel deep inside and flavour every layer of the meat.

Rub that scored underside generously with salt, five spice powder, white pepper, a pinch of sugar and a few cloves of pressed garlic. Work the mixture right into the cuts. Pour over a tablespoon of soy sauce and, for a rounder flavour, a tablespoon of rice wine. Keep every trace off the rind, which must stay clean and dry for the crackling to form.

Turn the joint over so the rind faces up. Prick it densely all over with the tip of a sharp knife or a cluster of skewers. Leave no smooth patch behind, because each little hole becomes a bubble in the oven. Dry the rind once more, brush it with rice vinegar, and rub in three tablespoons of coarse salt to draw out the moisture.

Heat the oven to 160 degrees. Wipe away every last grain of excess salt. Wrap the sides of the joint in foil, so only the rind stays exposed. Roast for around sixty minutes, until the meat turns tender and starts to release its juices. This slow stage melts the fat and readies the surface for the finish.

Now raise the temperature to 240 degrees, or switch on the grill. Roast for a further fifteen to twenty-five minutes. Watch as the rind lifts and blisters into golden, crispy bubbles. Rest the joint for ten minutes so the juices settle. Carve it into neat cubes and serve with mustard, hoisin sauce and a bowl of steamed rice or vegetables.