Cacio e pepe

Grate the Pecorino Romano on the finest side of the grater so it has an almost powdery texture. Use the finest side. Coarsely grated cheese emulsifies poorly and tends to clump together in the sauce.

Coarsely crush the black pepper in a mill or with a pestle in a mortar. This releases its aromatic oils. Set aside half of the pepper for the final garnish.

Toast the crushed pepper in a dry pan over medium heat for about 30 to 60 seconds, until it becomes intensely fragrant. Do not burn it. Just wake it up so it releases its aromatic oils.

Add a ladle of hot starchy water from the pasta pot (about 100 ml) to the toasted pepper. Let it bubble gently. This creates a richly peppery broth that will carry the flavour through the whole dish.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it slightly less than usual, because Pecorino is quite salty on its own. Less salt here. Oversalted water would make the final dish unpleasantly sharp.

Add the tonnarelli and cook them one minute less than the package instructions, so they remain al dente. Before draining, reserve at least 300 ml of starchy water. It is crucial for the emulsion.

In a bowl, mix the grated Pecorino with 2 to 3 tablespoons of lukewarm starchy water and whisk into a smooth cream. Temperature matters here. If it is as thick as a paste, add water by the spoonful until it loosens. Hot water would immediately curdle the cheese into clumps.

Transfer the drained pasta to the pan with the peppery water, stir briefly and remove from heat. Wait 20 seconds for the pan to cool slightly, then stir in the Pecorino cream. Stir vigorously and add more starchy water until you get a glossy, creamy sauce that coats every strand.

Serve immediately on warmed plates, sprinkle with the remaining freshly crushed pepper, and add a little more grated Pecorino to taste. Do not wait. The sauce cools down very quickly and loses its silky texture.